Sandaoyan Ancient Town: Chengdu’s Own Little Water Town
So the National Day holiday is coming up, and everyone’s hunting for somewhere fun to go. Chengdu has no shortage of options — but let’s be honest, places like Kuanzhai Alley, Jinli, and the Panda Base are going to be absolutely packed. As a local, I’d skip those and head to the suburbs instead. Here’s a recommendation for an ancient water town on the west side, not far from the city, with decent transport links.
It’s called Sandaoyan Ancient Town (三道堰古镇), in Pidu District — a charming little water town with old-school vibes.
Why Sandaoyan Is Worth Your Time
If you’re from Chengdu, chances are you’ve heard of Sandaoyan. After all, more than 90% of the city’s domestic and industrial water flows down from here. That water you’re drinking right now, or using to cook and do laundry — it passed through this very place. Chengdu Plain’s largest water plant, Water Plant No. 6, is located right inside Sandaoyan.
Originally, it wasn’t called “Sandaoyan” at all — it was “Sandao Yan” (三导堰). Legend has it that during the ancient Shu Kingdom, King Wangdi Duyu and King Congdi Bieling managed the waters of the Baitiao River. Instead of brute-force damming, they used bamboo baskets to cut the flow, creating three closely spaced weir heads to guide water into the fields. Rather than blocking the river, they worked with it — a bit like Dujiangyan. That’s why it’s also called “Little Dujiangyan.”
On the territory maps in both the Jiaqing and Tongzhi editions of the Pidu County Annals, it was written as “Sandao Yan.” Nobody’s quite sure why it became “Sandaoyan” by the last century, and the name stuck. Some say the current characters are wrong — but “dao” (导) means technology, while “dao” (道) means road, and the river here was always a road.
Two Rivers, One Town
The two major tributaries of Dujiangyan’s inner river — the Baitiao River and the Xuyan River — run through the entire town. With abundant, clear water, Sandaoyan is the only water town on the Chengdu Plain where two rivers flow side by side. It nourishes Chengdu while settling into its own unique water-town charm. By September, the summer heat has faded, and the old weirs, stone bridges, and flowing water feel like a painting come to life.
Yanqiao Bridge
Yanqiao Bridge is the town’s landmark — a covered bridge in traditional style spanning the Baitiao River, with red pillars, dark tiles, and upturned eaves. There are seats inside for resting, a bit like the South Bridge at Dujiangyan. In the afternoon, locals sit in the corridor, chatting in the river breeze, leaning on the railing to take in the view. The river flows slowly past white-walled, blue-tiled western Sichuan houses built right along the water — simple, solid, and full of character.
Yongding Bridge and Queqiao Bridge
Yongding Bridge isn’t far from Yanqiao. This stone bridge has been destroyed and rebuilt several times by floods. The four characters “Ancient Shu Water Town” are carved at its head. In the past, this bridge was bustling with people coming and going — it’s witnessed a century of change. The town has also built a new bridge called Queqiao, the highest river bridge in Chengdu.
The three bridges aren’t far apart — they watch over each other, yet each stands on its own.
Streets and Scenery
The town has Wenchang Street and Huili Commercial Street, both styled to look old-fashioned. Honestly, the goods sold here are pretty similar to other ancient towns in western Sichuan — not much difference. The buildings all have grey tiles, white walls, small green tiles, and fire-blocking gables at varying heights. But what you get here is a sense of quiet and peace you won’t find in the city.
Beyond the water, Sandaoyan’s environment is genuinely good. Since it supplies over 90% of the city’s water, there are no polluting enterprises in town — not even large factories. Both riverbanks are lined with dozens of meters of greenery, lush and dense. In recent years, many city dwellers have chosen to buy or rent homes in Sandaoyan. On weekends, plenty of elderly folks take the bus here just to wander around.
Local insight: The town’s water supply status means zero heavy industry — what you get is clean air, green banks, and a pace that feels a world away from downtown.
Around the Town
There’s plenty to see nearby: the “floating” Shuanghong Bridge, Qinggangshu Village (named one of China’s most beautiful villages), Butterfly Village with its rich rural scenery, and Yunqiao Wetland. Summer is lively here with water play, and there are lots of activities every year during the Dragon Boat Festival.
Du Fu once wrote: “Fish from Bingxue are known to be delicious; wine from Pijian needs no buying.” He was talking about the Pi area — and I like to think he meant here too. 1,200 years later, the fish are still from that same river; only the wine has been replaced by tea. The riverside teahouses are pure relaxation.
What to Eat
Where there’s water, the food won’t disappoint. Sandaoyan’s specialty is river fish — miaomiao fish and yellow catfish are incredibly fresh. There’s a row of restaurants along the river with transparent pricing: just a few tens of RMB per person, and that includes meals, tea, and an afternoon of mahjong. Absolutely comfortable.
Pro tip: The riverside restaurants offer set deals — a few tens of RMB per person covers food, tea, and mahjong for the afternoon. Perfect for a lazy day by the water.
Final Thoughts
September is here, National Day is just around the corner, and autumn is gradually settling in. The willows by the river are still green, but the rice fields are starting to turn gold. Here you can still feel the rural charm of the western Sichuan plains — the air carries the sweet scent of new rice and straw. As visitors slowly disperse, the town returns to its quiet, only the river flowing endlessly. This is where you find tranquility away from the bustle.
Autumn wind blows across the Baitiao River, ripples shimmer, old bridges stand still, and the old street rests easy. Sandaoyan Ancient Town — worth a visit this National Day.
Address: Sandaoyan Street, Pidu District, Chengdu — just navigate to “Sandaoyan Ancient Town” (三道堰古镇).
Tickets: No entrance fee for the ancient town.
Transport: Take Metro Line 6 to Jinfu Station Exit C, transfer to Bus 727 and get off at Yanqiao Cultural Plaza Station. Alternatively, take Bus P22 from Xipu Metro Station.
