Chengdu’s Living Century-Old Market Town: 2 RMB Tea, Few Crowds, and Perfect Autumn Vibes
If you’re based in Chengdu and looking for a quiet escape that doesn’t feel like a tourist trap, Wenjiang’s Hesheng Ancient Town might be exactly what you need. It’s a low-key, peaceful old market town that most people outside Wenjiang have never heard of — the folks wandering its lanes are almost all locals.
Hesheng sits in the northwest corner of Wenjiang: it borders Wanchun to the east, Liucheng to the south, and looks across the Jinma River to Chongzhou in the west. It may seem far from the city center, but here’s the upside — it’s close to the metro. Line 19 is just a short walk away, which is something most old market towns can’t boast.
A Town That Grew From a Ferry Crossing
Hesheng Market was first built in the Qing Dynasty, though older locals still prefer to call it Shujiadu Market. During the great “Huguang Fills Sichuan” migration, a family surnamed Shu settled by the Yangliu River and made a living running a ferry — hence the name. The ferry is long gone, but the name stuck.
According to the Wenjiang County Annals: “Hesheng Market, fifteen li north of the county seat, also known as Shujiadu Market.”
During the Qing Dynasty, the Wu and Gong families opened salt shops here. More and more traders followed, and a market town with seven streets and lanes took shape. The name “Hesheng” comes from “和融盛隆” — harmony, prosperity, and flourishing — a simple wish the people of that time had for this land.
Wandering the Old Streets
Walk through Hesheng’s old streets today — Datong Street, Lieshi Street, Xingsheng Street and others — and you’ll still see the classic Western Sichuan style: timber-framed tile-roofed houses with traditional chuan-dou construction. I love strolling old streets. Even though they’re worn, they give you a grounded feeling. Looking at these crooked old houses, your mind just quiets down.
Shujiadu Old Teahouse: 2 RMB for an Afternoon
Deep in the old street sits the Shujiadu Old Teahouse, first built in 1916. It still uses its old name, and this century-old spot is a favorite among locals. Step inside and you’ll see century-old trees, a tiger stove, copper kettles, and bamboo chairs. A bowl of gaiwan tea costs just 2 RMB, and you can sit there all afternoon.
Most visitors are locals, though young people from the city come too. They chat, crack sunflower seeds, sip tea — some just sit quietly and watch, or doze off. Honestly, that’s a fine way to spend an afternoon.
A Town of Crafts and Flavors
The old street isn’t big, but it’s wonderfully rustic. Since the Qing Dynasty, sauce workshops have lined these lanes, and the traditional diwoyou (drip-pit soy sauce) brewing technique has been passed down for generations. After a hundred years, it’s now an intangible cultural heritage. Many visitors buy a bottle of soy sauce to take home — though I honestly can’t taste much difference.
Sun’s Handmade Pastries, founded in 1852, are an old Wenjiang tradition and also now an intangible cultural heritage.
Historic Buildings and Riverside Views
Among the lanes you’ll also find the Republic-era Chen Mansion and the Shujiadu Covered Bridge. Standing on the bridge, looking out at the Yangliu River flowing slowly by, with deep green trees and flowers on both banks, your whole heart opens up.
Market Day: When Hesheng Comes Alive
On market days (封单赶场), Hesheng gets wonderfully lively. You’ll see vegetable seedlings, bamboo baskets, farm tools, freshly fried yougao (fried cakes), surou doufen (crispy pork with bean starch), Sun’s handmade cakes… It feels like being a kid again, following your mother to the market. There’s so much warmth here.
Sometimes I wonder — why do so many city people refuse to leave such a backward place? Maybe it’s nostalgia. Missing that carefree, beautiful life of the past. Modern people have better lives, but not necessarily more happiness.
Autumn Is the Best Time to Visit
It’s autumn now, and on your way to Hesheng you can pass through Wenyu Road’s plane tree avenue — an autumn internet-famous road. Over ten kilometers of plane tree shade rolls along, with branches from decades-old trees weaving into a dense green corridor. Walk through it and sunlight filters through the leaves, dappling the ground. A breeze rustles through, and the leaves whisper. This plane tree avenue has become Hesheng’s calling card — in a little while, lots of people will come to take photos.
Hesheng is also Wenjiang’s flower and plant base, with plenty of free spots to enjoy flowers — crape myrtle, red maple, hydrangea, ivy and more. There’s something different in every season. Not far away you’ll also find Lujiatan Wetland Park and the Beilin Greenway.
Why Hesheng?
People ask: with so many ancient towns around Chengdu, what makes Hesheng special? It’s that it never tried to dress itself up as “ancient.” It’s just itself. Chengdu has plenty of these rural spots (乡坝头), but Hesheng is one of a kind. Do you like places like this?
Practical Travel Guide
- Address: Xingsheng Street, Hesheng Town, Wenjiang District. Search “Shujiadu Old Teahouse” in your navigation app.
- Tickets: The old street is free to visit.
- Metro + Bus: Take Metro Line 4 to Fengxihe Station, exit F1, then transfer to Bus W23 to Hesheng Station.
- Driving: Navigate to “Shujiadu Old Teahouse” and find street parking. About 40 minutes from downtown Chengdu.
- Market Days: Public market days fall on odd-numbered days. The market is lively and full of local flavor.
- Tip: If you have time, cycle along Wenyu Road and the plane tree avenue — autumn is incredibly photogenic.
Pro tip: The teahouse is the heart of Hesheng. For 2 RMB and an afternoon, you’ll get a real taste of local life — bring a book or just people-watch.
Local insight: Come on a market day (odd-numbered days) to see Hesheng at its liveliest — and don’t leave without trying the freshly fried yougao.
